An Overview

Out of the 14 highest peaks in the world, 8 lie in Nepal, including the highest peak: Mount Everest. No wonder Nepal is the favorite destination for mountaineers, with more than 600 expeditions trudging up the Himalaya each year. It is only from 1949, as far as the history of mountaineering achievements go, that any human tasted success in the Nepalese Himalaya when the team consisting of Bill Tilman, Peter Lloyd and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa scaled Mt. Paldor 5,928m. Tenzing Norgay went on to become one of the two men, the other being the New Zealander Edmund Hillary, to blaze the first ever successful trail to the top of Mt. Everest in 1953. 

Since there are much more facilities and amendments being made in favor of the climbers, it is beginning to woo more and more people. There are so many tall tales to be a part of and as many records to try to beat. Most of all, there is the silent beckoning of these lofty creations which have been there before man, challenging him, and they will continue to tease and test his spirit as long as they are there. 

Seasons, Procedures and Permits:
The mountaineering season in Nepal is divided into four seasons, Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The most popular among them is the spring season. The harsh weather of winter has now left the mountains after having dumpted her last fresh snow and it takes some time now before the monsoon starts. The second best season would be the autumn season.

Procedure

A. The following documents have to be sent to the Ministry of tourism, Mountaineering Division, Katmandu, Nepal

* Completed Application
* Short biography of all members of the expedition (with photograph)
* Map and/ or photograph of the mountain including climbing route.
* Approach route map.

Since climbing permission is granted on 'first come first serve' basis, it is therefore necessary to enlist the expedition's name for the particular mountain for the particular season of the year. The listing is made when the completed application form with all documents are received by the Ministry of Tourism. In case all documents mentioned above cannot be submitted at a time, booking is possible with only the completed application by the expedition leader. No fee is required to enlist the expedition's name.

B. Your expedition must be handled by the Government registered trekking company in Nepal which can do all the necessary work for the climbing permission as your local expedition operator or local contactor as per mountaineering Expedition Regulations.

C. Climbing Permit fee (royalty): The leader of the expedition team or its agent is required to compulsorily pay the full amount of climbing permit fee (Royalty) before the permit is granted 

D. Preparation In Nepal for Expedition:
Import of foods and equipment:- Invoices and airway bill or bill of lading (four copies each) have to be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism for import license and customs clearance for the import of expedition foods and equipment to Nepal. CIF Katmandu value is to be clearly mentioned in the invoice.

Communication Equipment:- As Walkie-talkies, Transceiver (Wireless) sets and other communication equipment are controlled articles in Nepal. Please declare these articles in the customs office (at entry point) that you wish to bring into Nepal for use during climbing period. 
Such equipments have to be collected from the customs office by receiving permission letter from the Ministry of Communication.
For the clearance of the equipment completed application form and invoice with catalogue or specifications (four copies each) should be submitted to the Ministry of Tourism which are later to be sent to other concerned government offices.

E. Filming or Documentary: Permission is required for filming or documentary. The Ministry of Communication must be contacted any time for queries about filming in Nepal. Please let us know we will take care of every thing here in Nepal.

F. The Royalty and size of the Expedition team "Rules effective from 1996 Spring": More than one team maybe permitted to climb Sagarmatha (Mt. Everest) by each separate route in one season. A royalty of US $ 50,000 has been fixed for Sagarmatha for a team consisting of 5 members. The team may include 5 more members provided if it pays extra US $ 10,000 for each additional member. The royalty includes trekking fee of the team members. The team members will be granted three months visas. Additional US $ 20,000 will have to be paid if the team is to willing to scale Sagarmatha by normal South East Ridge route.

In all regions including Khumbu, an expedition team can have up to 5 members for the minimum royalty, and 5 more members for the additional royalty.

The team already permitted to scale Sagarmath will have to pay US $ 10,000 if it intends to change the ascent route. It will have to pay additional US $ 20,000 if it intends to change the ascent route to normal South East Ridge route.

For peak other than Sagarmatha, the team will have to pay additional 25% of the royalty in US $ to change the ascent route.

Expedition team must complete all necessary administrative formalities and procedures in order to send back the garbage of the expedition team to their respective countries, after the completion of the expedition. Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation will take necessary monetary deposit from them, which will be refunded after the dispatch of garbage from Nepal.

"Effective from 1992" the Ministry of Tourism has fixed the price of the deposit for the management of Garbage's by each mountaineering team who tries to claim any peak in Khumbu region are as follows;

Royalty: Sagarmatha-South-West Ridge
1 member, Total US$ 25,000.00
2 members, Total US$ 40,000.00
3 members, Total US$ 48,000.00
4 members, Total US$ 56,000.00
5 members, Total US$ 60,000.00
6 members, Total US$ 66,000.00
7 members, Total US$ 70,000.00

Additional member each US$ 10,000.00 (Up to 5 Person)

Other 3 routs-West ridge, West Face and South Pillar has fixed the royalty which is USD 50000 for the group of 1-7 and additional member each USD 10000 up to 5 person.

Royalty Other than Mt. Everest
Peaks above 8000m US $ 10,000 (1-7members) and $ 1500 for each additional member exceeding 7 members
Peaks of 7501-8000m US S 4000 (1-7 members) and US S 500 for each additional members exceeding 7members